Posts in category "Fix of The Week"


Fix Of The Week 6/21/19

Fix of the week

 

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The WeekNissan running rough, another with a shorted battery, and a Honda with ABS troubles.

 

2012 Nissan Xterra – Bayron Motor Sports

This vehicle came in running rough. We plugged in the diagnostic tool and got two fault codes, P0300: multi-cylinder misfire and P00328: knock sensor. We followed test procedures and found the distributor was faulty. We kept checking the knock sensor and tested the wire connections at the ECM and didn’t get anything there. For the P0300 code, we checked compression, fuel pressure, and for air leaks. What we found was the spark plugs were fouled. We continued with the knock sensor and found it was broken somehow—there apparently was a rodent in the past that ate the spark plugs wires and must have chewed on the knock sensor also. 

We replaced the plugs, wires, and knock sensor but still had the P0300 code, so we also replaced the distributor set timing. The vehicle ran fine after, idle was set to 750 +/- 50 RPM and to spec at 10 BTDC.

 

2001 Nissan Leaf – Arleco Garage

This vehicle came to the shop with no charge and wasn’t running at all. We found code P0AA6 in EV-HEV system and followed the Nissan diagnostic steps. Working with insulated gloves, we removed the service plug on the HV battery. We found 90V DC between the + side of the battery terminal and the casing. We removed the HV battery with caution, opened the cover, unplugged the BMS and still 90V between the service plug terminal and the casing.   

We removed the busbars and found the reading changed when the right-side modules stack was unplugged. We found module #37 on the top was shorted on the + side to its own casing. There are 48 modules of +/-8V in the Li-ion battery. We replaced the module, erased the codes and the car ran and charged fine. The dealer said the Li-ion battery had to be replaced. We repaired for 1/8 of the price.

 

2003 Honda Accord – Atherton Automotive

The customer had installed a new right front drive axle and WSS trying to solve ABS light and unwarranted ABS activation. Code 21 was being set—when driving the ABS would activate upon braking. We found the magnetic ring severely contaminated with rust and debris, so we loosened the axle and made room so the ring could be inspected and cleaned. After cleaning, we found a gouge in the ring, but the customer denied the bearing replacement. We reassembled and the unwarranted ABS activation was no longer present.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 


Fix Of The Week 6/14/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Weeka Kia and a Pontiac with headlight problems and a Nissan that failed emissions testing.

 

2014 Kia Sedona – Main Street Shell

This vehicle’s right side high beam headlight would come on and shut off after about a minute. We checked all the fuses and connections and checked for codes. We traced the wires back to the front area module and didn’t find any issue there. We swapped the 54 circuit with 53 (both white wires) which feed the left and right high beams at the big connector (front area module) With the wires swapped, the problem moved to the left side high beam and the right side worked properly. We replaced the BCM and the issue was resolved.

 

2006 Pontiac Grand Prix – Jeff’s Service

The low beam headlights on this vehicle would frequently go out. We commanded the low beams on through the BCM and waited until they went out. We found the BCM was still grounding the circuit for the HDM module (low beam relay). We jumped the circuit to the low beam lights and they came on—after the HDM module had cooled a bit they worked again. We replaced the HDM module and the low beams stayed on.

 

1994 Nissan D21 – North County Smog

This vehicle failed its smog testIt had high CO, ran rich and had poor drivability. We visually inspected the ignition components and intrusively tested the catalyst efficiency by drilling a hole in the front of the cat and testing emission level before the cat. The catalyst was working well, so we got started on a tune-up. The cap and rotor were worn; we replaced the O2 sensor which dropped CO from 3.2% to 1.0%. We tested the MAF sensor and TPS, both were good but the vehicle still ran poorly. Four new injectors did the trick and dropped the CO to 0.05%.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 


The Fix of The Week 6/7/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: Buick with no spark, an underpowered Nissan, and another Nissan that is just a little too noisy.

 

1991 Buick LeSabre – Jake’s Garage

This vehicle wouldn’t start but had spark; no injector pulse either. We back probed the Purple/White Wire at the Ignition Control Module but didn’t get a pulse. We replaced the Ignition Coil Module and Ignition Coils. That gave a pulse signal out of the module and at the PCM but the vehicle still wouldn’t start. We found low power (3.0V) on the Orange power wires at the PCM and good grounds. 
We repaired the corroded power wire before the fused link to the PCM powers under the cowl in the engine compartment. The SES light wouldn’t illuminate until we repaired the powers to PCM.

 

2012 Nissan Juke – Vincent Garage Inc.

The customer stated the vehicle was low on power and the check engine light was on. The engine speed would not increase past 2200 rpm and vehicle speed was limited to around 10 mph. 
We scanned for codes and retrieved codes P0101 and P2263. We observed scan data and found no obvious faults with MAF sensor readings. We checked the turbo inlet for damage but found none. Next, we checked all connections on the pressure side hoses of turbo and found a coupler from the plastic tube into the throttle body had come undone.  
We reinstalled the coupler and hose clamp, cleared codes and test drove the vehicle. No faults returned and the vehicle accelerated normally.

 

2015 Nissan Versa Note – AAA Club Alliance #118

Customer’s complaint was a noise on the left side of the vehicle near the front during a right turn while accelerating. We confirmed the issue but were unable to fault any bad components; wheel bearing, axle, control arm, etc. were all fine. Direct-Hit has a TSB to loosen the axel nut, push in the axel, lube behind the axel face to mating bearing and retorque bearing to 133 ft lbs. This resolved our issue.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 

 


The Fix of The Week 5/31/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a dead data line in a Hondaa faulty flywheel in a Nissan, and a blind camera in an Acura.

 

2006 Honda Civic – Midwest Auto Services

This Civic had no start, no fuel, no spark, and no PCM communication after replacing the oil control valve with switches. We checked the power and grounds—all were good. Next, we checked for wires damaged or left loose during installation and those checked out as well. We did, however, find there was a loss of data line communication, so we unplugged the new oil pressure switch and the vehicle started. The oil pressure switch had shorted internally and was killing the data line. We replaced the oil pressure switch and that solved the problem.

  

2004 Nissan Maxima – Woodie’s Auto Service

The vehicle had had the clutch and flywheel replaced and it wouldn’t start. The engine was turning over, the battery was good, and RPM was reading fine on the scan tool, but the timing read to be 170 degrees before top dead center.  
We checked to see if it had fuel and checked all the fuses. We checked for a spark and it only fired once while cold. The flywheel can only go in one way, and the crank sensor does not read the teeth on the ring gear but instead reads the reluctor wheel on the flywheel. Look for a notched dowel pin guide on the flywheel, on the side where it contacts the clutch—there’s a mark to line it up.

 

2016 Acura RDX – Port Moody Auto & Air

The left blind spot monitor unit was receiving an audio/navigation unit failure codeWe checked to make sure the BSM system was working correctly and it was fine. We ran a self-diagnosis of the audio unit to repair any codes in the navigation unit. The vehicle had a code 2608 – rear camera diag, so we inspected the rear camera, which turns out wasn’t plugged in. We plugged it in and the codes cleared.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 


The Fix of The Week 5/24/19

Fix of the week

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a knocking engine in a Lexuszero gauges in a Mazda, and crank, no start Hyundai.

 

2006 Lexus RX400H – Stillwater Automotive Service

This vehicle came in with a knocking engine and misfire. The sound was exactly like a bad rod bearing and the rocking was awful. We didn’t find anything on Identifix regarding an engine knock, so we went ahead and replaced the engine. That didn’t solve the issue. There’s a dual mass type flywheel on the back of the engine to connect it to the hybrid transmission and when the engine misfires, it throws that weight around and sounds exactly like a bad rod bearing. We replaced the spark plugs and one bad coil to remedy the issue.

  

2002 Mazda B2300 – Steve’s Service Inc.

The Mazda came into the shop with no gauges and the air bag light on. We checked the fuses and #11 was missing so we fixed that. #2 was blown so we replaced and performed a test drive. We noticed the air bag light came on when shifting from drive to park and discovered a wire on the O/D switched was rubbing on the shifter.

 

2015 Hyundai Sonata – Sterling Auto

This car came in no start, no crank, and the cluster lights flickering. No functioning horn, radio, door locks, A/C, or transmission range selector with the brake pushed. We checked all the fuses and everything came back fine. We tried to scan but it showed insufficient battery voltage. There was a bad ground from the battery to body, so we took the loose screw, sanded both the body and cable connection, reattached and everything works fine. We cleaned and tightened all the other body grounds we could see, too.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 

 


Fix of The Week 5/10/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a mystery noise from a Chevystubborn temperature gauge in a Kia, and a vibrating Saturn.

 

2015 Chevy Cruze– Extra-Tech Automotive Ltd.

This vehicle had a loud dronelike sound, almost like it had no air filter assembly. The customer heard it around 2000 RPMs, but we couldn’t replicate it in the shop. On the road tests, the sound was very noticeable—it was most pronounced on the highway at the lowest RPM before a shift.  

We checked the air filter assembly and the fuel lines at the firewall. We noticed the fuel line was rubbing against the neighboring A/C line, causing unwanted harmonics throughout the engine bay. We readjusted the lines and the noise went away.

  

2001 Kia Optima – Grease Donkey

This vehicle’s temperature gauge would climb only with the A/C on and would drop back down when the customer turned the A/C off slowly both ways. Meanwhile, the scan data showed a normal temperature reading the whole time.  

We ran a jumper cable from the engine ground to the body ground and observed the gauge. If the gauge slowly creeps back to a normal reading, then the fault is at the ground strap, located on the left fender near the battery tray and air cleaner—a black wire. We repaired the ground from the engine block to chassis and fixed the issue. 

 

2007 Saturn Sky – Tamrox Automotive

This Saturn was emitting a vibration at low RPMs from the engine while idling and driving. We verified it was indeed coming from the engine and checked the crank dampener for cracks or damage. We removed the front cover and counted the chain links between the balance shafts and the crankshaft. It should be 15 between the balance shaft arrows when in the timing position and 17 between the crankshaft and intake balance shaft. We found the balance shafts out of time due to a loose chain. We replaced both timing chains, guides, gears, and tensioners. 

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get a 14 day test-drive for just $1.00

 


Fix of The Week 5/03/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a bad sensor in a Mazdarusty brakes in a Buick, and wonky brake lights in a Hyundai.

 

2006 Mazda 3 – Ivy Truman Automotive

The customer said that the car was hard to start sometimes and occasionally runs rough with black smoke issuing from the exhaust when that happens. They also said that if they turned the car off and on again, it would run fine for a while.   

We found code p0118 for Engine Coolant Temp circuit high voltage in the vehicle history. After letting the car cool down overnight, we hooked up a graphing multimeter with a 0-5v scale and 5minute time base to the white signal wire at the ECT sensor. We started the car and watched the meter as it warmed up. There were multiple temperatures where the sensor open circuited (spiked to 5v on the meter) and the car would run roughly every time there was a spike. We then verified the wiring was good, so we knew for sure it was a bad sensor. We replaced the ECT sensor and the car runs fine.  

  

2006 Buick Lucerne – Crafton Auto Care

This vehicle’s brake lines were rusted out and leaked all fluid out of master cylinder—there were essentially no brakes on the car when it came into the shop. We checked the brake lines and filled the master cylinder to not damage the seals when the car was sitting, checked brake pads and rotors and found front pads low rears were OK  

We replaced all the brake lines, including lines from master to ABS unit, and to all wheels. We also replaced the front pads machined rotors, after trying to bleed the brakes several times. Bleeding and testing the master cylinder found that the rear calipers had both top slide pins seized, which caused a low brake pedal. We removed the slides, cleaned and lubed—problem fixed. 

 

2012 Hyundai Sonata – E & J Auto Repair

The customer stated that the car slowed down when the headlights were turned on. We checked for codes but found none, and the battery and alternator passed tests. We did find shorted brake light bulbs, however, and after we replaced them the problem went away!

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get a 14 day test-drive for just $1.00

 


Fix of The Week 4/26/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: sensors out of spec in a Nissan, a sticky window in a Honda, and another with a finicky immobilizer.

 

2006 Toyota Avalon – Wilshire Police Garage 

This vehicle’s cooling fan was always on high mode with the key on or the vehicle running. It stopped when the key was off. We found the green wire from the cooling fan ECU was disconnected and hidden in the harness. After putting the wire back to the connector, the fan stopped when it was never turned on. Also, the turn signals and temperature gauge were not working. 

While diagnosing the turn signal, we found that the circuit had no power to the blue wire at the windshield wiper switch assembly. We found the ECU ignition 1 fuse blown at the left side kick panelAfter replacing the fuse, the coolant fan started working, the coolant gauge worked, and the turn signals worked.

Before replacing the fuse, we tried to activate the cooling fan with the scanner on the powertrain screen but nothing happened. The ECU ignition 1 fuse powers the gateway module—the way fan works is the coolant sensor sends signal to the ECM, then ECM to gateway module, to junction block ECU, engine room relay block and junction block ECU, to green wire from relay block and junction block ECU pin 4 1H. 1H is the connector 1on relay block and junction block. From there, to the radiator fan control pin 2. This wire is duty cycle to the fan. No parts were changed in this fix, except for the fuse ECU ignition 1 fuse.

  

2014 Honda CR-V – Anthony’s Onsite Mobile Service

The CR-V’s rear release was inoperable after a repair to the left quarter panel post-accident. We checked the codes and found none. Upon locking and unlocking, we found that the left rear door would do neither, and the scan data never changed (even though you could manually lock and unlock door). We read that the rear hatch will be inoperable if any door still shows locked. 
 
A note here: the rear release switch had proper voltage (gray wire) and would properly ground circuit when activating. We tested with the volt meter, not the test light. Also, the latch actuator had proper voltage supply (pink wire) for operation, just no ground. We inspected the B pillar harness to find the left unplugged. The door harness was not fully seated to the body harness inside B pillar, and we didn’t notice that the power window was also inoperable—oops. We plugged in the harness and the rear release immediately worked.

 

2008 Hyundai Veracruz – Aquia Car Care

This vehicle’s exterior lights were doing some strange things when it came into the shop. Blinkers, brake, dash indicators were all onWe noticed that with either turn signal, the third brake light would blink. The yellow blinkers would stop and the tail light brake light would faintly blink. Pulling the affected tail light out one inch, everything started working correctly. The tail light harness was available, but to get the body connector you to buy the whole harness. So…we hardwired and bypassed the connector.  

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get a 14 day test-drive for just $1.00

 


Fix of The Week 4/12/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: sensors out of spec in a Nissan, a sticky window in a Honda, and another with a finicky immobilizer.

 

2006 Nissan Titan – Sacto Auto Repair

This customer had replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensor using aftermarket parts. They reset the check engine but it would turn back on after 1 drive cycle. The RPM fluttered and there was extended cranking. We tested the resistance of both sensors—those were within spec. We also checked the voltage to the sensors and suspected the problem was with the cam and crank sensor being out of spec once the vehicle was within normal operating temperature. We replaced with OEM HITACHI sensors. We drove the vehicle twice to verify the concern was corrected and the RPM gauge no longer flutters and check engine light stayed off.  

 

2004 Honda Pilot – Plymouth Village Automotive

The customer came in because her vehicle’s right rear window was stuck down. When trying to command the window up with the master switch, the door locks would activate. The intermittent battery light and warning lights in the dash came on while driving. We removed the passenger multiplex module at the right kick panel to check powers and grounds. The module was wet with water. The customer stated she got a car wash before the problem started and a new windshield was installed 3 months prior, which was leaking. We dried out the module and the window works properly again.

 

2006 Pontiac G6 – TGK Automotive

We performed an oil change on this Honda and cleared the P0420 code for the customer at their request. The vehicle would not start, and the immobilizer green key light would not light up—ever. There was no spark and no injector pulse. The starter worked fine and all communication was fine except the immobilizer, which both scan tools said was not equipped on this vehicle. That had us scratching our heads.  

There were no codes in any module and the launch torque and Snap-On Modis ultra were both fully updated. We tore the steering column clamshell cover off and tested for powers and grounds at the immobilizer plugs, all of which tested good. With the key on, we unplugged both connectors for 10 seconds. Upon plugging back in, the immobilizer light came on and flashed a few times then went out. The car starts fine now, and we’re guessing the immobilizer needed to be reset from clearing codes.
 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get a 14 day test-drive for just $1.00

 


Fix of The Week 03/22/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: stiff-turning Honda, another with severe vibration, and a Toyota with major terminal end corrosion.

 

2014 Honda Civic – Dermott Auto Inc.

The customer noticed a loss of throttle response whenever the headlights were on. The throttle would come back when cycling the gas pedal. No history codes were showing up. We checked the starting and charging systemboth were fine. The brake light bulb shorted out and would activate the throttle bypass when the light would come on. We changed out the bulb and the issue cleared up 

 

2013 Hyundai Elantra – Five Points Automotive

This vehicle’s alarm was activating intermittently, so we checked that all doors, hood, and trunk were shut. We pressed lock twice on the fob, listening for confirmation honk and waited 30 seconds for the system to arm. If you pull up on the passenger side front of the hood (to the left of the latch) and the alarm sets, the hood sensor bracket is out of alignment.

If the alarm sounds, open the hood and locate the sensor. You bend the bracket up by pulling up gently and locate the rubber pad that depresses sensor when the hood is closed. Rotate to reposition the slight deformity that occurs on the pad and apply electrical tape. This holds the pad in place and adds an extra layer of thickness to prevent accidental trip of alarm. Set alarm and wait 30 seconds to arm, and try again.

 

2003 Buick Century  D&W Automotive

The vehicle’s engine was knocking loudly, but it wasn’t consistent with engine speed. We scanned for codes but only found P0300. We observed the misfire counter to see number 6 missing steadily. We removed the spark plug and used borescope to look for piston to valve contact but found none.   

We reinstalled the plug and removed the ignition wire when the engine was running. This eliminated the noise. We used a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum and observed fluctuating and low engine vacuum. We felt heat in the intake runner of cylinder 6 when the engine had been running a short time. We removed the valve cover and found the cylinder 6 exhaust rocker arm had stripped the threads in the head. We installed a Heli-Coil in the head and reinstalled the rocker arm. The push rod and rocker looked serviceable. The engine now runs smoothly and quietly.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get a 14 day test-drive for just $1.00