Posts in category "Fix of The Week"


Fix Of The Week 10/11/19

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: disconnected linkage in a Nissan, an interfering key in a Cadillac, and a check engine light on in a Subaru. 

 

2008 Nissan Maxima – Mr. T’s Automotive

Both front windows of this vehicle would roll down when the customer turned it off and they couldn’t unlock the door with the key. I removed the driver’s side door panel to make sure the door lock cylinder was plugged in. I checked for water intrusion in the plug and made sure the linkage was connected, which it wasn’t. The switch was in the down position which allowed both windows to roll down while holding the key in the unlock position.

 

2008 Cadillac CTS – Prospect Exxon

The customer stated that over the past year the vehicle would intermittently not crank, and it was now stalling intermittently. We were unable to duplicate the issue. There was a code in antitheft for a transponder error. I asked the customer if she had any other keys since the key she provided was not the one she normally used. She brought the key ring she would normally use and I found one of those RFID transponder tags (used to open doors) next to the ignition key. I was able to duplicate the intermittent no start or start/stall with the key she provided. If you moved the transponder in very specific spots around the ignition lock cylinder, the problem occurred—if you moved it away, the vehicle would start fine. This explained its random intermittent nature and why we weren’t able to duplicate it. The fix was adding an additional key ring and putting the transponder away from the metal key.

 

2012 Subaru Legacy – Osceola Garage

The customer complaint was the check engine and overheating lights come on after a half-hour of driving. I scanned for stored codes for the check engine light and found a coolant temperature sensor low circuit. I tested the ECT sensor and it tested ok. I did find excessive combustion gases through the radiator and bad cylinder head gaskets, as well as a warped passenger side cylinder head. I replaced the cylinder heads only due to a good price, otherwise, it could have been machined. The vehicle now runs properly and no more combustion gasses coming from the cooling system at the radiator.

 

FIND THESE AND OVER 2.5 MILLION OTHER CONFIRMED FIXES IN DIRECT-HIT. TRY IT FOR 14 DAYS FOR JUST $1.00!

 

 


The Fix Of The Week 10/07/19

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this jumbo edition of Fix of The Week: dash lights on in a Kia and a Lexus, an insect issue in a Mazda, lots of mystery noises—chattering in a Honda, a rattle in a Toyota, and a plugged ignition coil in another Honda.

 

2011 Kia Sedona – Christian Brothers Automotive

The customer came in with all dash lights coming on in the vehicle which wouldn’t run or start. It had died while driving. I performed the starting/charging system diagnosis based on the customer’s description. I found the alternator was not putting any voltage out, loaded or unloaded. The battery was also dead from driving around with a dead alternator. I tested the voltage at the plug for diagnosis and everything was fine.   

 I determined it was indeed a bad alternator and a weak battery that needed to be charged. I replaced the alternator with an aftermarket one, re-tested it and confirmed it was working fine in the shop and on the test drive. I charged the battery but it still tested weak. The customer stated the battery was under warranty so I sent them on their way. The next day, they called from 100 miles away with the same systems and had it towed back. I tested the alternator again and it was dead. I replaced it under warranty and it died on us while road testing. I installed a different aftermarket (new) alternator and drove only for it to die again. I ended up going with a factory Kia alternator and after a few road tests it seems resolved.

 

2012 Lexus GX460 – International Foreign Car Service

This vehicle’s SES light was on and the 4Lo light was flashing. The vehicle had code DTC P-2445 (bank 1 secondary air valve stuck closed). I performed a secondary air system function test with the scan tool and found the air pump was activating and providing good aid pressure. I checked five-wire connectors at both banks’ switching valves for proper sensor voltage, sensor ground, and the sensor signal. These were all fine.  

I checked both valve connectors for proper component grounds (pin 4). Both grounds were good. I reconnected the switching valves and cleared the codes to run the secondary air function test again. I back-probed pin 5 at both switching valves (with a test light to pin 4 ground) and run a function test to verify the secondary air driver was applying voltage to both valves, commanding them to open. Both valves were being commanded open with 12 volts and the test light was brightly lit. I could feel and hear bank 2 switching valve opening and felt nothing from bank 1. I replaced bank 1 secondary air switching valve and performed secondary air system function test after clearing the codes.

 

2016 Mazda CX-5 – Martin’s Auto Service

The vehicle came with code P1450 – Check Engine Light. I tested the purge valve and made sure it was sealed when not commanded on—that passed. Next, I removed the under shielding and accessed the EVAP cannister and vent valve and the pinch hose going to the purge valve. I disconnected the corrugated line to the fuel tank and blew through the vacuum canister when the EVAP solenoid was not commanded on. I removed the vent hose from the charcoal canister and found that the vent hose screen above the left rear wheel was restricted with major mud dauber nest built over the vent. I cleaned the vent screen.

 

2012 Honda Crosstour – Lia Hyundai of Hartford

The customer complained of chattering and thumping noise when taking turns, particularly in a parking lot at low speeds. I visually inspected the vehicle for leaks in the rear differential and checked to make sure the tires were all correct and the same size.  

I replaced with a dual pump from Honda, updated the fluid, and test drove. At first, I heard the same noise but took about 30 right turns in constant circular motion and then 30 left turns. Slowly the chatter went away and the car turns smooth now.

 

2008 Honda Accord – Martinez Auto Shop

The engine was difficult to start and the anti-theft lights turned to flashing after a few attempts to start. I checked the engine flashing and the vehicle started after a lot of attempts. I got back engine codes and checked for grounds and power. I inspected the fuses and relays, checked the ignition switch and electric part, and inspected for grounds on the engine. If those are all in good condition, check the sensors from the FICM power relay and ignition coils.  

I unplugged the ignition coils one at a time and tried to restart the engine. If it doesn’t start, plug the coil and do the same with the rest and inspect the fuel injectors. I found a damaged ignition coil that was interfering with the engine computer. I replaced and the vehicle started fine and now drives well.

 

2011 Toyota Sienna – Patton’s Auto & Tire

There was a rattletype noise coming from this vehicle and only when the A/C was on and driving at idle speed. It seemed to come from the A/C compressor area—if you turned it off, the noise went away.  

I replaced the A/C compressor with a new one from Toyota. The noise was still there. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and the noise still happened. I narrowed the noise down to inside the oil pan which I removed and found the balancer assembly making the noise. There was too much backlash in the gears (follow the steps in the shop manual to check). It was only .002 out of specs! 

I replaced the balancer assembly inside the oil pan (bottom of the engine). Note: Toyota had never sold this part below, but the noise is fixed and the customer is happy.

 

FIND THESE AND OVER 2.5 MILLION OTHER CONFIRMED FIXES IN DIRECT-HIT. TRY IT FOR 14 DAYS FOR JUST $1.00!

 

 


Fix Of The Week 9/20/19

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a stalled Toyota, a shorted brake lamp bulb socket in a Hyundai, and wobbly Nissan.

 

1999 Toyota Camry – Hoffman’s Garage

This vehicle didn’t have any trouble codes stored but it would randomly stall when coming to a stop. The customer said it was difficult to start and acted like it was flooded. We scanned and didn’t find any codes, so we test drove it and noticed it acting up after a while.   

I started the car after it sat overnight to monitor the coolant sensor voltage. It started out around 2 volts and was idling fine. The coolant sensor voltage spiked to 4.5 volts for a split second and the car almost stalled. I replaced the engine coolant sensor and performed another test-drive—all good.

 

2011 Hyundai Sonata – Accurate Autoworks

This vehicle had intermittent no throttle response when the throttle was reapplied after coming to a stop. I verified the concern and checked for fault codes but none returned. I monitored the engine data and that was fine. During testing, I noted the engine could be started and transmission could be shifted into gear without depressing the gas pedal. I also noted one brake lamp was inoperative.   

I inspected the brake lamp bulb, which was fine, but the socket was melted/shorted. The shorted brake lamp bulb socket was giving feedback to the computer, causing it to think the brakes were applied, which inhibited the throttle response. I replaced the brake lamp bulb socket/sub-harness assembly. The dealer did advise that the brake lamp bulb sockets commonly fail on this model.  

 

2012 Nissan Rogue – Discount Inspection & Brakes

This vehicle’s front end was shaking between 10-35 mph while accelerating after the driver-side front axle shaft was replaced with aftermarket parts, which still had a warranty. The vehicle still had a vibration, so we swapped out the aftermarket CV axle for an OE axle from the salvage yard. The wobble went away with the OE axle. 

After comparing both axles next to each other, found the side of the axle that goes into the transmission was about 1/4 inch shorter, causing it to not complete seat inside the transmission.

 

FIND THESE AND OVER 2.5 MILLION OTHER CONFIRMED FIXES IN DIRECT-HIT. TRY IT FOR 14 DAYS FOR JUST $1.00!

 

 


Fix of The Week 9/6/19

 

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a hard shifting in a Toyotaa passenger seat sensor in a Subaru, and popping noises in a Chevy.

 

2001 Toyota Highlander – Meineke Car Care Center #121

The vehicle was driving with a hard stumble on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts after the intake manifold was removed to replace the knock sensors. On cool to warm startupsthe engine misfired on cylinders 2, 4, and 6 for approximately 20 seconds, but would still hard shift.  

I unplugged bank 2 air/fuel sensor and the stumble was gone but still hard shiftedI found buried and disconnected ground wire on the back of the intake manifold passenger side, so I connected the ground and car is now perfect, thanks to James Leach from Keliher Auto Sales. Grounds are extremely important on this engine!

 

2017 Subaru Forester – 15th Street Automotive

The vehicle came in with code B1650 – occupancy detection system malfunction. I tested fuse 25 in F/B and checked all the connectors under the passenger seat. Next, I checked the passenger seat belt buckle. The passenger seat had a thick wool seat cover that was dampI removed the seat cover and the seat cushion was damp. I dried out the seat cushion and cleared the code. If the code doesn’t clear after drying, then replace the seat cushion/occupancy detection sensor. I informed the customer to remove the aftermarket seat cushions.

 

2015 Chevy Tahoe – David Bean

The Tahoe came in with code P219B and the customer was complaining of popping noise from under the hood. We detected the noise coming from the right side of the enginesounded like a loose spark plug and I could smell exhaust gasses. The live misfire data would just for a split-second show 2 misfires on cylinder #6, then clear. With the engine running, the noise was under the intake manifold on the passenger side. 

I removed the intake and noticed the #6 injector was discolored, so I removed bank 2 injector rail and found the #6 injector gaskets were missing. Next, I cleaned the head with a pipe cleaner and cleaned the injector with throttle body cleaner. I replaced bank 2 injector seals and O-rings and intake grommets. If possible, get the tool to install the sealsit makes it much easier to avoid damaging the new seals. You might just replace the injector, to cover all bases.

 

FIND THESE AND 2 MILLION OTHER CONFIRMED FIXES IN DIRECT-HIT. TRY IT FOR 14 DAYS FOR JUST $1.00!

 

 


Fix of The Week 8/26/19

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a dead battery in a Kia, loss of power in a Toyota, and a swaying Nissan.

 

2003 Kia Sorento – Fauls Family Automotive

This vehicle’s instrument cluster lights wouldn’t turn off and the battery was dying. After replacing the battery the engine wouldn’t shut off with the key. I scanned for codes and nothing relevant came up. We researched Direct-Hit and found almost the same symptoms. Based on that information I removed the junction fuse box from the left kick panel and opened it up. We found a burnt board around the one relay, so we replaced the fuse box and issue was cleared.

 

2004 Toyota RAV4 – David’s Garage

The vehicle was consistently losing power and shutting off. It would crank but no start and the only code was P011. We opened the hood and coolant was everywhere. We pressure tested the cooling system to determine where the leak was coming from. I noticed coolant coming from the exhaust manifold so I cranked the car and water poured out of the exhaust pipe and shot out of the radiator with the cap off. The engine was blown and we replaced.

 

2002 Honda Accord – Dick’s Place

The customer was complaining of sway in the rear when hitting bumps at highway speeds. He had just bought the car in Florida and driven it back to Virginia. I checked the rear for damage and found the car had been wrecked in the rear right. I checked the alignment and found right rear camber was laid in 2.5 degrees. After visually inspecting I could see the control arm was bent. We replaced the right rear lower control arm rearward and set the alignment back to spec. Confirmed all was good after the road test.

 

FIND THESE AND 2 MILLION OTHER CONFIRMED FIXES IN DIRECT-HIT. TRY IT FOR 14 DAYS FOR JUST $1.00!

 


Fix Of The Week 7/26/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Weekclicking sounds from both a Honda and a Buick, and a bad intercooler in a Mazda.  

 

2009 Honda Accord – Main Street Auto Repair

This vehicle came in with no A/C compressor operation. You could hear the A/C relay clicking loudly and the scan tool A/C switch and clutch PID both said ON. The scanner said A/C system pressure was at 100 psi, but there was no power at the compressor. We manually operated the relay using the scanner and got the same result. We checked continuity on the A/C compressor power line and had continuityno short to power or ground. The compressor ground was good. I was going to voltage drop the circuit but swapping relays was way easier. 

I swapped the relay with starter relay and the problem was solved. I replaced the A/C relay with a new one. The problem must have been that the relay was not holding the amperage load internally to charge the compressor circuit, even though it was clicking loudly. 

 

2007 Buick Lucerne – Schwabe’s Automotive

The customer noted a clicking noise on right turns only, and the tighter the turn, the more prominent the noise. It sounded like a drive axle, so we replaced the passenger axle shaft but the noise was still there. I looked on Identifix and found a similar scenario: Bendix drive loose on start. I jacked up the passenger side of the car with the motor running and found the Bendix hitting the flywheel. I replaced the starter and the noise went away.   

 

2012 Mazda 3 – Dave’s Ultimate Automotive

This vehicle had poor acceleration/no boost. The DTC code was P0299—bad intercooler. With a scan tool, go into live data and monitor the boost pressureif there is very little or no change while increasing RPMs, there is likely a leak in the system.   

While the engine is running increase RPMs enough to spool the turbo and listen for a loud whooshing noise or loud engine intake noise indicating a leak. Under normal conditions, there is very little engine/turbo noise.  

Inspect all intake plumbing for cracks or loose clamps and inspect the intercooler, paying extra attention to the lower end where the lower tank crimps to the intercooler core. Confirm turbo, wastegate, and recalculation valves are all functioning properly. We replaced the intercooler (the lower tank separated from the intercooler core had caused a large leak). 

 

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Fix Of The Week 7/2/19

Fix of the week

 

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: a Subaru and a Nissan with sensor issues, and a Chevy with a mysterious ABS light.

 

2015 Subaru WRX Sti – Speedy Roo Motorsports & Repair

The customer had installed a quick release steering wheel in this vehicle and the check engine light, VSI light and traction control lights all came on. We installed the scanner and found code C1711We attempted to recalibrate the steering angle sensor and couldn’t because the sensor angle was too great (42°). We moved the steering slightly to reduce the steering angle reading, performed calibration and that worked alright. We had to keep moving the steering wheel slightly and calibrating until the final time where we got the wheel straight. 

 

2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 – Dream City Auto Sales

The ABS light came on with code C0245 stored in the EBCM whenever the vehicle went over 45mph. After stopping and turning the key off and on, the light goes off but once you reach 45mph again, the light turns back on. The data showed all good working speed sensors, but the truck was lifted and had bigger wheels with 35” tires. We recalibrated the tire size on the EBCM with the closest diameter tire size.   

 

2011 Nissan Armada – Whitehall Shell

The vehicle came in with ABS slip and four-wheel drive lights on. The customer’s dealer told them they needed a front differential. The housing was cracked but that had nothing to do with the lights being on. We scanned and the all-wheel speed sensors were reading the correct mph. We switched the scanner to the graph and found a dirty signal from the left rear sensor. We installed a new sensor and had the same issue. We switched the wiring so the left rear was reading through the right rear side—still a bad signal. We replaced the left rear wheel bearing assembly and cleared the codes. Road tested and the vehicle ran fine.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 


Fix Of The Week 6/21/19

Fix of the week

 

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The WeekNissan running rough, another with a shorted battery, and a Honda with ABS troubles.

 

2012 Nissan Xterra – Bayron Motor Sports

This vehicle came in running rough. We plugged in the diagnostic tool and got two fault codes, P0300: multi-cylinder misfire and P00328: knock sensor. We followed test procedures and found the distributor was faulty. We kept checking the knock sensor and tested the wire connections at the ECM and didn’t get anything there. For the P0300 code, we checked compression, fuel pressure, and for air leaks. What we found was the spark plugs were fouled. We continued with the knock sensor and found it was broken somehow—there apparently was a rodent in the past that ate the spark plugs wires and must have chewed on the knock sensor also. 

We replaced the plugs, wires, and knock sensor but still had the P0300 code, so we also replaced the distributor set timing. The vehicle ran fine after, idle was set to 750 +/- 50 RPM and to spec at 10 BTDC.

 

2001 Nissan Leaf – Arleco Garage

This vehicle came to the shop with no charge and wasn’t running at all. We found code P0AA6 in EV-HEV system and followed the Nissan diagnostic steps. Working with insulated gloves, we removed the service plug on the HV battery. We found 90V DC between the + side of the battery terminal and the casing. We removed the HV battery with caution, opened the cover, unplugged the BMS and still 90V between the service plug terminal and the casing.   

We removed the busbars and found the reading changed when the right-side modules stack was unplugged. We found module #37 on the top was shorted on the + side to its own casing. There are 48 modules of +/-8V in the Li-ion battery. We replaced the module, erased the codes and the car ran and charged fine. The dealer said the Li-ion battery had to be replaced. We repaired for 1/8 of the price.

 

2003 Honda Accord – Atherton Automotive

The customer had installed a new right front drive axle and WSS trying to solve ABS light and unwarranted ABS activation. Code 21 was being set—when driving the ABS would activate upon braking. We found the magnetic ring severely contaminated with rust and debris, so we loosened the axle and made room so the ring could be inspected and cleaned. After cleaning, we found a gouge in the ring, but the customer denied the bearing replacement. We reassembled and the unwarranted ABS activation was no longer present.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 


Fix Of The Week 6/14/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Weeka Kia and a Pontiac with headlight problems and a Nissan that failed emissions testing.

 

2014 Kia Sedona – Main Street Shell

This vehicle’s right side high beam headlight would come on and shut off after about a minute. We checked all the fuses and connections and checked for codes. We traced the wires back to the front area module and didn’t find any issue there. We swapped the 54 circuit with 53 (both white wires) which feed the left and right high beams at the big connector (front area module) With the wires swapped, the problem moved to the left side high beam and the right side worked properly. We replaced the BCM and the issue was resolved.

 

2006 Pontiac Grand Prix – Jeff’s Service

The low beam headlights on this vehicle would frequently go out. We commanded the low beams on through the BCM and waited until they went out. We found the BCM was still grounding the circuit for the HDM module (low beam relay). We jumped the circuit to the low beam lights and they came on—after the HDM module had cooled a bit they worked again. We replaced the HDM module and the low beams stayed on.

 

1994 Nissan D21 – North County Smog

This vehicle failed its smog testIt had high CO, ran rich and had poor drivability. We visually inspected the ignition components and intrusively tested the catalyst efficiency by drilling a hole in the front of the cat and testing emission level before the cat. The catalyst was working well, so we got started on a tune-up. The cap and rotor were worn; we replaced the O2 sensor which dropped CO from 3.2% to 1.0%. We tested the MAF sensor and TPS, both were good but the vehicle still ran poorly. Four new injectors did the trick and dropped the CO to 0.05%.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.

 


The Fix of The Week 6/7/19

Fix of the week

 

Fix of The Week

Every week we’re posting our favorite head-scratchers and interesting mechanical issues submitted by our Direct-Hit customers.

For a chance to have something you’ve worked on appear as a Fix of the Week, and win a cool little prize for your shop, all you have to do is post your unique fixes in Direct-Hit. Just look up the vehicle you’re working on, click on Post Fix at the top right, then tell us the problem and what you did to fix it.

 

This Week’s Winners

On this edition of Fix of The Week: Buick with no spark, an underpowered Nissan, and another Nissan that is just a little too noisy.

 

1991 Buick LeSabre – Jake’s Garage

This vehicle wouldn’t start but had spark; no injector pulse either. We back probed the Purple/White Wire at the Ignition Control Module but didn’t get a pulse. We replaced the Ignition Coil Module and Ignition Coils. That gave a pulse signal out of the module and at the PCM but the vehicle still wouldn’t start. We found low power (3.0V) on the Orange power wires at the PCM and good grounds. 
We repaired the corroded power wire before the fused link to the PCM powers under the cowl in the engine compartment. The SES light wouldn’t illuminate until we repaired the powers to PCM.

 

2012 Nissan Juke – Vincent Garage Inc.

The customer stated the vehicle was low on power and the check engine light was on. The engine speed would not increase past 2200 rpm and vehicle speed was limited to around 10 mph. 
We scanned for codes and retrieved codes P0101 and P2263. We observed scan data and found no obvious faults with MAF sensor readings. We checked the turbo inlet for damage but found none. Next, we checked all connections on the pressure side hoses of turbo and found a coupler from the plastic tube into the throttle body had come undone.  
We reinstalled the coupler and hose clamp, cleared codes and test drove the vehicle. No faults returned and the vehicle accelerated normally.

 

2015 Nissan Versa Note – AAA Club Alliance #118

Customer’s complaint was a noise on the left side of the vehicle near the front during a right turn while accelerating. We confirmed the issue but were unable to fault any bad components; wheel bearing, axle, control arm, etc. were all fine. Direct-Hit has a TSB to loosen the axel nut, push in the axel, lube behind the axel face to mating bearing and retorque bearing to 133 ft lbs. This resolved our issue.

 

Find these and 2 million other confirmed fixes in Direct-Hit. Get $40 off your first three months.